Land of the P.O. Box

 

A foreigner or a young Russian would be hard-pressed to decipher a phrase like УI work at a boxФ. However, in the USSR of about twenty years ago its meaning was clear to almost everybody.а Throughout the rest of the world an address like лpost box ╣Е╗ is just an ordinary mailing address. But here everyone knew Ц it referred to a secret site. A Place Not To Be Mentioned Aloud.а The Urals used to be a true land of Уpost box numbersФ. And hence a land prohibited to foreigners.аааааа

 

A ban on travelling to this region was introduced after the war, somewhere around 1950. The very documents regulating the ban were classified. In most regions the ban only applied to certain towns and districts, however the Sverdlovsk, the Chelyabinsk, the Perm, the Gorky oblasts, Mordovia and Udmurtia were sealed tight. The only exception, and even then on extremely rare occasions, was made for official delegations.

For everybody else the ban was a high wall. The only chance for a visitor to enjoy the beauty of Sverdlovsk, or the Ural landscapes for that matter, was from a transit train window. If ever a foreign guest would have decided to УunintentionallyФ miss a train at our railway station, this would have been immediately noticed by a trained stewardess and even better trained people УmeetingФ some unknown visitors at the platform. After a difficult but necessary talk with the counterintelligence officers, the unwanted guest would have been deported from the USSR without any hope to ever get a Soviet visa again.

Accordingly it was a lot more difficult for the Ural residents to go abroad than for people living in other Soviet regions, though the task was not easy for anyone.а And notwithstanding frequent exchange of popular jokes about the severe security regulations, not even in the not-so-sober friendly chat were the УsecretФ names ever mentioned.

The deliberately ugly fences hid the У the worldТs very bestФ facilities where the people worked wonders.а And in the afternoons the Уwonder makersФ in their worn coats merged with the evening crowds, and even their next door neighbours learned that theyТd lived next to a Уcreator of unique systemsФ only years after, when the authorities placed a memorial board on the wall of the house.а

These were the times when the history of the Urals was written in invisible ink. The ink that slowly becomes readable only today, and even now, not all of it.

 

One of the worldТs largest production plants

Acclimatization was difficult: thousands of the Kharkov Engine Works employees with their families came to Nizhny Tagil by the beginning of winter of 1942Ц the winter that turned out to be unbelievably cold even by Ural standards Ц and the newcomers had to move into whatever flimsy accommodation was available.а The facility was no ordinary steam engine manufacturer:а it was there where the famous T-34 was made right before the war.

As time was precious production soon started on the facilities of the engine works, which was at that time only five years old. Despite all the problems and close attention of the Уcompetent authoritiesФ they learned again how to make strong armour. And made 25 thousand tanks before the Victory Day. Germany at the peak of its power when it attacked the USSR had only about four thousand.

And then Е they continued making tanks. The T-72 designed and produced there in great quantities was the symbol of the Soviet might of the 1970-80Тs. Over the 28 years of its production about thirty thousand units were made. This was the most mass produced tank in the world, which, same as the Kalashnikov, even today Ц forty years after it was designed! - is still in the inventory of dozens of armies worldwide. Including Russia.

УVagonkaФ today is hundreds of square kilometres of workshops and tens of thousands of workers. This is the largest tank manufacturer in the world Ц and in the category Уgeneral worksФ it ranks second only to the mega-works of Boeing in Seattle.

Another local masterpiece, which boggles the mind with its size, is the proving ground which for decades was kept under the seal of absolute secrecy, and access to which today is open for everyone during the work of Russian Expo Arms.а The length of its shooting range is several dozen kilometres.

 

Key to nuclear power problem

Another record-breaking company was set up in 1945 south of Nizhny Tagil near Verkh-Neivinsk. A small territory, no endless trains filled up with the finished product. For five years the people working there failed to make any success despite the repeated visits of Comrade Beria with all the inevitable consequences. It was only in 1950 when they managed to tame the erratic equipment to which there was nothing even remotely similar anywhere else in the world.а The daily yield of the product was 148 grams Ц that was a great achievement.

The product was enriched uranium. However, its final conversion took place somewhat further north, in Lesnoy. And plutonium was produced further south, in the town of Ozersk. There the work went better from the very beginning, and for that reason the first Soviet atomic bomb was armed with plutonium.

And the aforementioned record was made when in the 1950Тs the facility operated at the limit of its capacity Ц that was the most Уenergy savingФ company in the country, it consumed 3% of all electricity generated in the USSR. Just thirty-three of such barely visible operations - and the rest of the country would not have been able to light even a single electric bulbЕ

 

Heirs of the samurai

By the 1970's, however, it was an even smaller facility at the outskirts of Sverdlovsk that became the most protected secret of the Middle Urals. Because, after all, nobody ever denied the fact that the USSR produced tanks and nuclear bombs. But in that case it was just like in the X-files television series: лDeny Everything╗.

After World War II the USSR has done a lot to institute a ban on biological weapons. It ardently condemned the imperialists who had allegedly used it in Korea and then, again allegedly, continued their Уinhuman researchФ. The USSR was one of the first to join the relevant international convention loudly proclaiming its humanistic policy on every occasion.

In reality, however, the laboratories and production facilities continued to operate. The name of one of such facilities was "Sverdlovsk 19". The work started there after the War with the study of captured Japanese materials. In the underground workshops they produced a nightmarish substance designed to cause death, and a very painful one at that, to anyone who would ever attempt to disturb the peaceful work of the Soviet people.

But it was the native city that was eventually hit with the terrible weapon. Because ofа the personnel's negligence, on 3 April 1979 the spores of the dangerous bacteria were carried with the ventilation into the atmosphere. Several dozen victims, the city in panic, and the rumours of the events finally reachedа the Уpotential enemyФ. However, American experts for a long time refused to believe that a facility as dangerous as that could have been placed within the limits of a city with a population of one million.

а

Dead hand

Already over half a century of peace has been maintained thanks to a general belief that it is senseless to be the first to start a nuclear war: no matter how hard the enemy would be hit, enough missiles would survive to cause in response an utter destruction of the offender. This concept had a weak link though Ц what if the top leadership of the nation would not have time to reach shelter and would be destroyed in the first strike before it had time to issue a retaliation command?а

By the mid 1980Тs the USSR had created a unique system designed to close that gap. Deep in the underground bunkers specially trained officers were supposed to watch daily the seismic detector readings. In case of an alarm signal, and if the seismic detectors indicated the ground was shaken by terrible explosionsЕ they would have to push the button. A fully automated computerised version was also considered - who knew what might be expected of humans, what if they took pity on America? However that option was never used Ц because who knew what might happen to a computer? Officially the system had a nice name Ц УPerimeterФ, but western experts gave it a more dramatic nickname Ц the УDead HandФ.

The said bunker was located in the north of our region in the depth of the Kosvinski Kamen mountain. Granite. Armoured doors. Capable of withstanding a direct hit by a thermonuclear warhead. This particular granite mountain was chosen from many others for its unique stratigraphyа - different rock layers form a huge electric capacitor resonant with extremely low radiofrequencies. If the explosion destroyed all antennas on the surface it would still not cause a problem. The very mountain rock would act as an antenna sending the order to all remaining missiles in their underground silos: FIRE!а

 

Enjoying the openness

Thus it is not surprising that people of the older generation in the Urals developed such a liking for foreign travel today: they fulfil their dreams of remote lands which in their childhood seemed to be only wishful thinking. In our travel we also fulfil the dreams of our parents who never had a chance to see the world.

The ban on visits by foreigners was lifted on 4 July 1992. Both the arms race and the cold war came to an end. УVagonkaФ now sells its tanks in the export market. The Novouralsk facility is engaged in Уde-enrichmentФ converting weapon-grade uranium into UCN fuel. Right after the accident the lethal УSverdlovsk 19Ф production line was removed, now the facility is focused on vaccine development. Both towns however remain closed to visitors Ц today a threat comes from some unstable third world countries and the terrorists hunting after the nuclear and the biological weapons technologies.а There is no exact data available about the current status of the УPerimeterФ system.

 

Insert:

Today, four territories in the Sverdlovsk and the Chelyabinsk regions remain closed to foreign visitors:

- west of the Nizhny Tagil Ц Ivdel railway, south of river Ivdel and north of the Kushva - Serebryanka line (with the exception of the railway itself and the towns mentioned)

- the district bound by the line Verkh-Neivinsk Ц Kalinovo Ц Murzinka Ц Belorechka Ц Neivo-Rudyanka Ц Verkh-Neivinsk (with the exception of the towns themselves)

- the district bound by the line Poldnevaya Ц Mauk st. Ц Tyubuk Ц Kasli Ц Argayash -а Karagaikul Ц Tyubuk Ца Kosmakova Ц crossing point of the Poldnevaya Ц Mauk line with the Chelyabinsk and the Sverdlovsk regions borders (with the exception of communities mentioned)

- Yuruzan -а Pervukha Ц Meseda Ц Ekaterinovka - Polovinka -а Sovkhozny (with the exception of Yuruzan).ааааа

 



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